Design Detail, 17th October

17th October, Ellen Gunn, Complete Contour Fashion Studies

Design Detail: Necklines

Contemporary Designer: Zac Posen, Spring Ready-To-Wear 2015 Runway Show

I’ve chosen Zac Posen who has focused on necklines as I’ve never heard of the designer and wanted to gain some insight into what his garments were about.

This is his Spring Ready-To-Wear Runway collection of this year, the far left neckline fascinated me the most, as all the others slightly vary by dipping below or upon the collar bones whereas this design is quite invasive. What I mean by invasive is that the arch is particularly bold by dominating the entire chest due to its coverage.

Posen was going for an ‘inner Audrey Hepburn through the eyes of Marina Schiano doing Brancusi.’

The similarities between Audrey Hepburn’s iconic little black dress is the use of a bold neckline flattering the shoulders. Even the shoulder blades are made apparent by the cut out back from both designs; suggestive.

During the 1950’s another current actress in opposition to Hepburn’s body image was Christian Dior’s New Look of Marilyn Monroe in the memorable, and just about contained white dress.

‘Hepburn had no bosom or hips to speak of…Together Hepburn and Givenchy created a woman who didn’t need yards of fabric to be fashionable, just a little black dress…’

To show the significance of this dress – it now has it’s own shortened version of LBD.

Overall the reason why I chose this particular neckline is because it was the most apparent as it is so unusual and this I feel covers the social context currently having much more freedom, specifically in Britain when it comes to sexualising ourselves to the degree we want – so covering like this is a rarity. Whereas back then what Monroe did broke a revelation of containment and instead presented the world with something that was always a taboo – flesh but without being derogatory.

Bibliography

Article:

http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/review/zac-posen

http://onthisdayinfashion.com/?p=6315

Image of the back of Audrey Hepburn’s neckline:

http://theferkel.co.uk/2014/05/30/breakfast-at-tiffanys-or-the-story-of-the-gold-digger/

Larger image of Anna Cleveland:

http://democracydiva.com/2014/10/09/red-carpet-predictions-spring-2015-part-2/

First image of Audrey Hepburn:

http://www.doctormacro.com/Images/Hepburn,%20Audrey/Annex/Annex%20-%20Hepburn,%20Audrey%20(Breakfast%20at%20Tiffany’s)_14.jpg

Marilyn Monroe:

http://rap.genius.com/Brianna-marilyn-monroe-lyrics#note-535392

Book:

‘The Chronology of Fashion from Empire Dress to Ethical Design’

By NJ Stevenson

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